Traveling in Ireland

Author: Ireland Family Vacations

Welcome to Traveling in Ireland, the podcast where Jody Halsted, your go-to Ireland travel expert, chats with locals about their areas and tourism businesses. Listen for laid-back conversations that spill the beans on the best places and experiences Ireland has to offer. From the buzz of Dublin to the tranquil spots in County Kerry, were diving into it all. Get ready for stories, insights, and tips that go beyond the guidebooks. Plus, Ill be dishing out some Ireland travel tips to make your trip smoother than a perfectly poured pint of Guinness. Whether youre a newbie or a frequent flyer to Ireland, this podcast is your shortcut to the real deal. Grab your favorite beverage, kick back, and lets chat all things Ireland on Traveling in Ireland with Jody Halsted.
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Dublin to Galway (and Why You Might Want to Take the Long Way)
Episode 326
Tuesday, 17 February, 2026

Two Ways Across Ireland: Direct and Easy, or Scenic and Story-Filled Traveling between Dublin and Galway might look simple on a map – a straight shot from east to west. And it can be. But this is Ireland, and sometimes the best part of the journey is what happens when you detour off the motorway. Dublin to Galway Drive: 2 Routes Across Ireland Dublin and Galway are two of Ireland’s most popular city bases. Whether you're starting your trip in the capital or finishing along the Wild Atlantic Way, chances are you’ll travel between them. You have two very different options: The quick motorway route (about 2.5 hours direct) A route that dips south of the motorway and turns the drive into a full-day – or even two-day – journey Which one makes sense for you really comes down to how much time you have between Dublin and Galway. If you're working within a tight schedule, the motorway is efficient and straightforward. If you’ve built flexibility into your itinerary, leaving the motorway opens up castles, early Christian history, and some wonderfully open midlands landscapes along the way. This article is also available as the Traveling in Ireland podcast, episode 326. Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links. Route 1: The Quick and Easy Motorway (M4 to M6) If you want to arrive in Galway with plenty of afternoon ahead of you, the motorway is your friend. Leaving Dublin, you’ll take the M4, which seamlessly connects to the M6 about a third of the way across the country. It’s an easy drive, well-signed, and very manageable even if you’re new to driving in Ireland. There are two tolls on this route: Kilcock–Kinnegad (M4) West of Ballinasloe (M6) Depending on your starting point in Dublin, you may also encounter the barrier-free electronic toll on the M50 ring road. Learn more about toll roads in Ireland – and why you probably don't need to purchase a tool pass from your rental car company This route is ideal if: You want an uninterrupted afternoon in Galway (or Dublin) You’re planning evening music and pub hopping You’re short on time But even the “quick” route offers one classic stop. A Stop in Athlone: Sean’s Bar Roughly halfway across the country sits Athlone, and more specifically, Sean’s Bar — the oldest pub in Ireland (and Europe), with origins dating back to 900 AD. As you enter, Sean’s Bar feels exactly like you hope it will. The long wooden bar anchors the front room, worn smooth by centuries of elbows and conversation. There’s usually a fire glowing in the hearth, adding that unmistakable warmth that Irish pubs do so well. Tucked into corners near the back you’ll find cozy snugs, perfect for quiet chats, while the walls are layered with memorabilia that tells the story of the building and the people who’ve passed through it. There’s even a small viewing area where part of the original wattle and wicker wall is visible – uncovered during renovations and now preserved as a reminder of just how long this spot has welcomed travelers. Most travelers pop in for a quick pint, stretch their legs, and continue west. But if you have time, you can book into one of the workshops: learn to pour a pint of Guinness, sip uisce beatha – the water of life – with a whiskey tasting, or enjoy an Irish coffee while hearing about the pub's history. If you're hungry, the Left Bank Bistro, across the street, is an excellent choice for a relaxed and satisfying meal before getting back on the road. Parking tip: Street parking near the pub is limited. Follow the road up the hill for paid public parking (bring coins or download the parking app to pay). From here, it’s about an hour to Galway — and you’ll likely arrive with the afternoon still ahead of you. Route 2: The Scenic Detour through County Offaly If you have a full day between Dublin and Galway – or even better, two – dipping south of the motorway transforms a simple transfer into a highlight of your itinerary. Exiting the motorway at the N52 will lead you to A remarkable castle estate One of Ireland’s most important monastic sites Optional whiskey experiences A castle stay Wide-open parklands reclaimed from peat bog It’s slower. It’s richer. And it feels wonderfully “middle of Ireland.” From the M6, exit at Kilbeggan and follow the N52 south toward Birr. Birr Castle: Innovation and Gardens in the Irish Midlands Birr Castle Demesne is one of those places that surprises people. Still a private residence of the Parsons family (the Earls of Rosse), the estate blends science, history, and landscape beautifully. The on-site Science Centre tells the story of the family’s remarkable innovations – from early photography to engineering feats – and most impressively, the Leviathan telescope, which was the largest in the world until the 1920s. Visiting Birr Castle isn’t only about innovation and astronomy. Once you leave the Science Centre, the estate opens up into more than 120 acres of gardens, parklands, and quiet walking paths for your exploration. Massive trees, carefully designed formal gardens, and wide green lawns make it easy to linger longer than you planned. The castle itself is still a private residence, which makes it feel lived-in rather than staged. At certain times of year, guided tours bring you inside a handful of rooms on the main level – spaces that reflect both the family’s long history and the reality that this is still their home. There’s something rather lovely about that balance of past and present. You might even be lucky enough to spot a member of the family coming or going, a small reminder that this isn’t simply a preserved monument. If you’re traveling with children, the treehouse alone could make the stop worthwhile. It’s less “simple wooden platform” and more storybook fortress, built for climbing, exploring, and letting off steam. Parents can relax nearby while the kids burn energy before getting back in the car. Birr Castle Demense is the kind of place that works equally well for adults who want to wander gardens and for families who need space to play – and that’s not always easy to find in one stop. Plan on at least two to three hours here. It’s one of those places that quietly earns more time the longer you stay. Clonmacnoise: Ireland’s Ancient Crossroads From Birr, make your way back toward the M6 for a stop at Clonmacnoise, one of Ireland’s significant early Christian sites. Founded in the 6th century by St. Ciarán, Clonmacnoise grew where Ireland’s great crossroads once met – the River Shannon running north to south, and the main land route crossing east to west through the boglands. In its time, this was a place of movement, trade, learning, and faith. It became one of the great monastic centers of Ireland during the era of ‘saints and scholars'. Today, visitors can wander through extensive church ruins that stretch across the site, with two round towers rising above the landscape as they have for centuries. The three high crosses are especially worth your time. Intricately carved and remarkably expressive, they tell stories in stone – biblical scenes, symbols, and craftsmanship that still draw you in when you stand close. Allow at least 90 minutes to explore properly, especially if you want to spend time studying the high crosses and walking the full grounds. As an OPW heritage site, it’s also a worthwhile inclusion if you’re using an OPW Heritage Card during your trip. Optional Add-Ons: Whiskey Experiences If you enjoy Irish whiskey – or want to understand it better – there are two convenient stops along these routes. Both offer guided experiences that can deepen your appreciation for one of Ireland’s most famous exports. At Kilbeggan, just off the M6, you can choose to stop for that whiskey experience (no children under 12), or continue south on the N52 to Tullamore distillery tour (strictly over 21; no children).Advance booking for both tours is highly recommended. Stay Overnight at Kinnitty Castle If you have the time to stretch this journey into two days, Kinnitty Castle makes a memorable place to pause. Book direct – Booking.com Set near the Slieve Bloom Mountains, this is not a polished luxury resort with a spa and endless amenities. It’s a castle with character – exposed stone, heavy wood doors, slightly creaking floors, and rooms that lean into their history rather than hiding it. The baronial rooms in particular feel wonderfully atmospheric, with stone walls and timber beams that remind you exactly where you are. It’s the kind of place you choose when you want to slow down. Evenings naturally drift toward the Library Bar, where a fire and a comfortable chair make it easy to linger over a drink. Dinner in The Dungeon restaurant adds a bit of fun to the experience, and if you arrive earlier in the day, afternoon tea is a lovely way to settle in. During the day, there are simple activities if you want them – horseback riding (arranged in advance), archery, tennis, and hill walking in the Slieve Bloom Mountains. There’s even a fairy trail that’s charming whether or not you’re traveling with children. One important thing to know: there is no elevator. Some of the most atmospheric rooms are at the top of the castle, so if stairs are a concern, request a ground-floor or lower-level room and pack lightly. This is part of the authenticity – it hasn’t been over-modernized – but it’s worth planning for. Lough Boora Parklands: A Landscape Reimagined If you’ve spent the night nearby and want one more stop before arriving in Galway or Dublin, Lough Boora Parklands offers a completely different kind of experience. This was once a working peat bog – lowland bogland harvested for fuel for decades. Today, it has been thoughtfully reclaimed and reshaped into a vast outdoor space filled with lakes, wetlands, woodland, and open pasture. Walking paths wind through the landscape, and the sculpture park is especially compelling. Many of the installations were created with the history of the bog in mind, and some even incorporate the original tools and machinery used in peat harvesting. There’s something powerful about seeing those remnants transformed into art. It’s also a place where families can relax for a while. There are easy trails, opportunities for bird watching, a fairy trail for younger visitors, and bike hire if you want to cover more ground. You’ll even find evidence of a Mesolithic site, a reminder that people have moved through this landscape for thousands of years. The drive between Dublin and Galway can be a straightforward 2.5-hour journey. Or it can be castles, Celtic crosses, telescopes, whiskey, and wide skies over reclaimed bogland. If you simply need to get from one city to the other, the motorway works beautifully. But if you have the time – and even a little curiosity – you might find that taking the long way becomes one of your favorite days in Ireland. The post Dublin to Galway (and Why You Might Want to Take the Long Way) appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.