The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Author: Neely Quinn

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbings best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. Youll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether youre a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, youll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
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Language: en

Genres: Health & Fitness, Nutrition, Sports, Wilderness

Contact email: Get it

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TBP 320: Crimp Smarter - The Hand Muscles People Ignore, with Dr. Jared Vagy
Episode 320
Thursday, 22 October, 2026

Dr. Jared Vagy, “The Climbing Doctor,” is back on the podcast to talk about crimping. Specifically, he covers the finger and hand muscles most climbers never train, and why that might be important for your pulleys and overall hand health. Jared has a new book, The Resilient Climber, which breaks down 40 climbing movements by their mobility, strength, and movement demands. In this episode he applies that framework to the crimp. His core argument: climbers train their long finger flexors in one direction, over and over. That’s a lot like runners who build huge quads and hamstrings but neglect the side-hip muscles that stabilize the knee. The smaller stabilizing muscles in the hand get left behind, and Jared sees that pattern constantly in injured climbers. Show Links The Climbing Doctor: Jared’s site, with free blog posts and programs The Resilient Climber Climb Injury-Free Videos from the episode: Finger extensor strengthening Pom-pom gripping Pen rolling Finger joint decompression Jared sees climbers in person in Los Angeles and does remote sessions for climbers in CO, UT, and CA. He also keeps a referral list of climbing-savvy providers on his site.