The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Author: Neely Quinn

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbings best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. Youll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether youre a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, youll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
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Language: en

Genres: Health & Fitness, Nutrition, Sports, Wilderness

Contact email: Get it

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TBP 289: Climbing Training Success Story - How Doug Hartman Climbed His 1st 5.13a at 46
Episode 289
Wednesday, 28 May, 2025

Doug Hartman is a 46-year-old ER doctor from Oakland, CA who is married with 2 kids. He’s a busy guy, but he figured out how to optimize his training and climbing in order to send his first 5.13a at the age of 46. He’s going to tell you the main things he learned from podcasts and coaches that helped him the most, and a little bit of advice about how to be a good spouse and parent, even when you’re a passionate climber. The two main things Doug changed about his climbing were: Resting more Following a non-linear vs linear training program He wrote up an entire description of everything he changed and how he trains so you can peruse it for yourself. >See Doug’s Training Plan Suggestions for Menopause/Perimenopause Guests In the beginning of the episode I asked for suggestions for guests to talk about their personal experience with perimenopause/menopause and clinicians who work with people going through menopause/perimenopause. I want to educate climbers about this topic because it’s super important and impactful, and doctors are not doing a good enough job of educating us. Please email me at neely@trainingbeta.com with your suggestions! I’d prefer to have people on who are also climbers.